Saturday, July 18, 2009

Week Three - Water


Quickstart:

Obtain 1, 2, or 3 liter plastic soda bottles from your friends and/or family. Rinse well inside and out with tap water, make sure you rinse the bottle cap too. Then fill with tap water. Put the cap on then store in a dark place, like a closet or basement. You need six 2-liter bottles, for one person, for a three day supply.

Blog Post:

O.K., you did your homework and made a threat analysis. Now look at the list; you will notice most of the situations/problems will require the same basic supplies to survive.

The most important is breathing. I will be covering this subject in a couple of weeks, so I will be writing about the next most important, water.

Humans are made up of about 75% water. Start losing water and you begin to feel thirsty. If you lose more water, you feel lousy, run-down, irritable, etc. Lose enough and you die.

Depending on the weather, how hard you are working, and other conditions, you have about 3 to 5 days before you die from lack of water.

One way to prevent this untimely death is to store potable water. Potable water is just a fancy term for water that you can drink and put in a pot to cook with.

One way to store water is to throw money at the situation/problem. The way to do that is go to the local store and buy a few cases of bottled water.

Another way is go to a discount retailer or sporting goods store and buy water containers.

You will need at least one gallon of water for each person; each day you are planning to have supplies for an emergency. An example: One person preparing for a 3 day emergency needs at least 3 gallons of water.

Remember me writing about opinions. FEMA says you should have supplies for at least three days. Some people advocate having enough supplies for at least two-weeks. Me, I say to have 30 to 60 days of water for each person, but this amount depends on how much space and how much money/effort you are willing to spend.

A second method of storing water is to save your money and use recycled containers. The preferred containers are 1, 2, and/or 3 liter soda bottles. These bottles work great, easy to carry by almost everybody, rugged, and easy to obtain. Avoid using plastic milk jugs.

Don't believe me.

Take a water-filled milk jug and a filled 2-liter bottle, hold at head height, and drop. Make sure you do this outside on the concrete and backup real quick.

Another recycled container you can use is used 5-gallon buckets. Many different items come in these buckets like cake icing, berries, pickles, sauces, and other food items. You can get these buckets from school cafeterias, bakeries, or grocery stores.

Do Not, Don't, Never use buckets that have contained non-food items like asphalt, paint, and chemicals. The same goes for buckets that you don't know what has been in the container.

Another used container for water is the 55-gallon barrel. They come in a variety of colors. I try to stay with the blue, white or natural plastic colors.

No matter which type of container, new or used, you use; you will need to clean the container and treat the water.

To clean the bottle, bucket, or barrel just rinse with tap water using a garden hose and spray nozzle. Insure all solids and residue are removed from the inside and outside of the container, don't forget to clean the lids.

Some people say to use a power washer for cleaning your containers. I disagree!

Unless it is your brand new, never used, power washer, unknown chemicals such as soaps, waxes, or other cleaners have been used in the power washer.

Some used 55-gallon barrels have had soda drink syrup in them. Try as hard as I can; I can't initially remove the taste. I have found rinsing then filling the barrel with water and letting sit for a few weeks then emptying then rinsing and filling again helps.

Make sure you store your water supplies in a dark place or covered with a tarp, this prevents algae growth in the water.

To pretreat the water, I use unscented chlorine bleach. Clorox brand bleach with at least 5.25% sodium hypochlorite has been the standard for years, but Clorox changed the formula. I now use a different brand, but it still has at least 5.25% hypochlorite with no scents or soaps. You will have to read the label to find this information.

Note: Read "New Information from American Red Cross"

Using bleach, that is newly purchased, with at least 5.25% hypochlorite, to treat your water.

4 drops per liter
An example: one 2-liter bottle gets 8 drops of bleach

1 teaspoon/5 mL per 5 gallons
An example: one 5 gallon bucket gets 1 teaspoon of bleach

1/4 of a cup/50 mL per 55 gallon barrel
An example: A 25 gallon barrel gets 1/8 of a cup of bleach

The above recommendations are used to pretreat the water for storage. Some people will tell you it is unnecessary to pretreat tap water. Remember the opinions.

Storage water should be rotated at least once a year. Rotating insures that you have a reasonably fresh supply of water. I like to do this in the summer. It is warm outside and there is extra chlorine in our municipal water supply (tap water).

The next step is to decide on what type of storage containers you are going to use. The #1 plastic, the recycle code found on the bottom of plastic containers, soda bottles are lightweight and anyone can carry one, even small children. 5-gallon jugs or buckets weight about 40 pounds/20 kilograms, and a 55-gallon barrel weights over 400 pounds/200 kilograms when full.

I have found placing 2-liter bottles in cardboard boxes is a great way of storing water. The boxes allow me to easily stack the bottles and protects the water from light.

Some of the 5-gallon water jugs you buy at the sporting goods store have little stacking ridges on the top and bottom of the jug to allow them to be stacked one on top of the other.

The 55-gallon barrels allow me to store a lot of water, but once you decide where they will be stored and are filled, you have to empty the barrel before you can move it again.

If you decide to store water in a 55-gallon barrel, you will need a way to remove the water, remember 400 ponds of water! If you decide to buy a pump for the barrel, there are a variety of them.

One pump, least expensive, is the siphon pump which is a piece of plastic hose with a small colored finger pump on top to start the siphon. There is a faucet pump; it looks like a faucet with a push down handle. This pump screws into one of the opening on top of the barrel. The last one I know about is the pitcher pump. The type you see next to the sink in older rural homes.

If you don't get a pump, you can siphon from the barrel using a length of garden hose. Cut a piece about 6-8 feet long. Place one end of the hose in the barrel and suck on the other end. When the water starts to flow, quickly move the end you were sucking on to the container on the floor. Make sure you put the running water in another clean container like a bucket. If you plan to do this, make sure you practice, and you have a dedicated piece of water hose for using to siphon water.

All of your storage water should be placed on pallets. Pallets allow air to circulate around you storage items. For water, the pallets also allow you to see if a container is leaking. I put a piece of cardboard with a layer of aluminum foil over the cardboard on the pallet before placing my bottles/barrels of water on the pallet. Just because.

Before I start writing about collecting water, I want to tell you about water bladders. Bladders are flexible containers that hold anywhere from 30 ounces to thousands of gallons. Some people know about water bladders because they use Camelbacks or Platypus bags. I have used bladders that held about 500 gallons.

Yes, just like barrels, you set the bladder in place and don't move it until the bladder is empty. I tell you this because you could put a bladder under your bed; additionally, there is a bladder that will fit into a bathtub. It is to be filled during the early stages of an emergency.

Another way to prevent dying from lack of water is to collect it. There are many ways to collect water, solar stills, plastic sheets catching rain, dedicated rain catchment systems, etc. I will write about a few of them. If you do a key-word search on the internet, You can find other unique ways of collecting water.

One method of collecting water is to collect water from sources within your home. These sources are your hot water heater, toilet tank, not the bowel, and the water pipes.

To collect water from your hot water heater, turn off the heating element (electric or gas) and your water at the main shut-off. Let the water cool; it can be hotter than 120F. Open the spigot and catch the water in a clean container.

To drain the water from your pipes, turn off the main water shut-off valve, then open a faucet at the highest point in the house. Find the lowest water spigot in the house and open, allowing the water to run into a clean bucket or other clean container.

If you have a water bed, to bad, the plastics used make the water non-potable. You will have to treat the water, but there is only one way I know of to treat this water. You will have to construct a water condenser/distiller.

The water bed water is removed and the water is heated. The water evaporates leaving behind the chemicals as water vapor is produced. The water vapor condenses on a piece of glass, smooth metal, or plastic sheeting. The water runs down the collector and is collected in a clean bucket or other container. The set up is similar to a solar still.

Solar stills are a classic way of collecting water. You have probably seen it in some survival manual. You dig a hole. Put a container to collect water in the bottom of the hole, then form a piece of plastic sheeting into an inverted cone that covers the hole. The sun shines and evaporated water collects on the plastic. The water very slowly runs down the plastic and drips into the cup.

The survival manual usually forgets to tell you to put a small stone in the bottom of the plastic to hold the plastic in a cone shape over the cup and a length of clean tubing, rated for potable water. The tubing sits in the cup and runs out of the solar still. This set up allows you to drink the collected water without disturbing the solar still.

Solar stills work, but you have to remember; you are looking to produce one gallon of water a day, just for you. I have heard it takes about 20 of these for one person.

The solar still can be supercharged by urinating into the hole, avoid peeing into the drinking cup, adding green plant material in the bottom of the hole, or putting non-potable (can't put in a pot to cook with or drink it, the opposite of potable) water in the hole before covering with the plastic.

If you supercharge the solar still insure the non-potable water or plants never touch the plastic. If it does, the water collected will be contaminated.

I can't urge you enough. Don't contaminate your clean equipment and potable water. One drop of non-potable/dirty water can cause severe medical problems.

A modified method is skipping the hole and just putting green plant material in a plastic bag. Set the bags in the sun and water will form on the plastic. If you use this method, make sure you use food-grade bags and avoid poisonous or harmful plants like Poison Ivy.

Another method of collecting water is from rain. The simplest method is putting out plastic sheeting just before a rain shower. The rain collects in the plastic and you put the collected rain in a container. If everything is clean, before you start, you don't have to treat the water, Maybe. Remember about opinions. I have used this method. I didn't get sick, but maybe you will.

So you should treat the water you drink. "Emergency Water Purification" in the links below has the accepted methods of treating collected water.

Lastly, you can purchase a water filter. Below are pages of evaluations on portable water filters. The best portable filter, in my opinion, is the Katadyn Pocket. It has problems, but it filters almost everything, for a price.

The best, once again in my opinion, base camp type filter is the Katadyn Drip Ceradyn. The Swiss designed it, manufactured it, and tested it. They planned to use the filter to help survive a nuclear war. Need I say more.

Second up is the British Berkefeld filter. It works on the same principle, but doesn't filter as well as the Katadyn filter, according to test results.

If you don't want to spend the money to buy a Ceradyn or a Berkefeld, you can jerry-rig a work around.

Buy two to four Katadyn Ceradyn filters, the British Berkefeld filters also work. Take three food grade buckets and three lids.
Cut out a hole in one lid so a bucket will fit a litle less than half way in the lid. Put the bucket through the hole then caulk, using food-grade silicon caulk, around the seam of where the bucket goes through the lid. Let dry. Label this set up, on the bucket, Untreated/Dirty water.

Next put the lid and bucket combination on a bucket. Label the bottom bucket Potable Water, Treated Water, or Clean Water.
Now here comes the hard part. Take the untreated/dirty water bucket and drill two to three hole in the bottom of the bucket. (Depending on how many filters you are going to use) The holes should be the same size as the treads on the filters.

Put a tight gasket, from a hardware store, on the treads of the filter then screw the filters into the holes of the bucket. Put another gasket on the treads sticking through the bottom of the bucket then a washer to compress the gasket and then add a nut to tighten everything up.

Test for leaks using potable water! If it leaks redo the washers and gaskets.

Label the third bucket Non-Potable/Dirty Water. The third bucket and lid are used to settle and/or transport collected water to the filter. The extra lid is used to cover the clean water bucket when filled with treated water.

To use, fill the third bucket (Non-Potable/Dirty Water bucket) with dirty water and let the water settle. Pour the settled water into the top bucket, don't let the junk in the bottom of the third bucket get out.

When you are pouring the water into the top bucket, make sure you don't overfill the top bucket, it may spill over contaminating the clean water bucket; additionally, fill the top bucket one-quarter to halfway full. This prevents the filtered water from touching the bottom of the top bucket.

Once the non-potable/dirty water goes throught the filters, the water is ready to drink. Some people say to put a few drops of bleach in the filtered water, just in case.

When the bottom bucket is full, remove the top bucket with the caulked lid and cover the bottom bucket with the lid for that bucket. Use a dipper or ladle to take water out of the potable water bucket.

When pouring water into a drinking container, such as a glass or canteen, don't let the water fall back into the water bucket because the water might get contaminated from a used glass or cup.

Make sure you read and download the rain water catchment manuals. After you do that, I'll ...

See you next week!

Links:

Fact Sheet: Water Storage Before Disaster Strikes:
http://oldweb.uwp.edu/admin/safety/h2ostore.htm

New Information from the American Red Cross:
http://www.rense.com/general2/watrpur.htm

A Source for Water Tanks:
http://www.watertanks.com/

A Source for Buckets, Barrels, and Other Plastic Items:
http://www.usplastic.com/

Friday, July 17, 2009

Friday - Water, Food, Shelter, and ...


It's Friday!

The end of the workweek and another original post about what's going on in the world/my life.

Water, Food, Shelter, and Protection
I was thinking about buying some gold and silver, today. Silver and Gold are at $13.41 and $937.70. I remember thinking about buying gold at under $300 and silver at $5.00.

Then I remember my threat analysis, and it doesn't include me buying any silver or gold, in the near future

Plus, we need two more 55 gallon drums for water, 330 pounds of wheat in #10 cans, a couple of green tarps, and two bolt-action rifles.

Yep, no silver and gold for me until it goes back to $300 an ounce and $5.00 for a dollar of junk silver.

Links:

Kitco - Spot Silver
http://www.kitco.com/charts/livesilver.html

Kitco - Spot Gold
http://www.kitco.com/charts/livegold.html

Water, again!
A buddy of mine works outside. He drinks about a gallon of water everyday to keep hydrated.

To keep from getting bored with drinking plain water; he puts flavoring in his water. One litre bottle for Kool-Aid, another has lemonade, another litre bottle for plain water, and the last one has Gatorade. He's lucky; his work provides the lemonade and the Gatorade for free, as a perk.

By the way, he never drinks soda during the work day.

Work Related Perks
Does your place of employment offer free classes? How about free transportation? How about matching 401K contributions?

Are you taking advantage of those perks? If you aren't, you should.

40 Years Ago
Three men were on their way to land on the Moon. Many men and women working alone and as a team made that journey possible. Three men; Virgil Grissom, Edward White, and Roger Chaffee; gave their lives to make that journey and many others a success.

Links:

We Choose The Moon
http://wechoosethemoon.org

NASA - Apollo 11 Image Gallery
http://history.nasa.gov/ap11ann/kippsphotos/apollo.html

NASA - Human Space Flight (HSP) - Space History
http://spaceflight.nasa.gov/history/index.html

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Third Half - Shelter


Welcome,
This is the third half of the blog on shelter.

Being a Refugee
Most people will agree becoming a refugee is a very poor idea, but what happens when your home has been destroyed by fire, tornado, war, or another reason.

Where do you go? Who do you stay with?

Can you leave your home? Is it safe to move?

Can you stay on your property? Is it safe to stay?

How about a local hotel or motel? What about neighbors, family, or close friends?

Do they know you might show up? What happens if they were affected by the disaster?

How about out-of-state family and friends? Did you preposition some supplies such as shoes and clothing?

Can you even leave the state? What about your job?

Lastly, are there Red Cross or other shelters available?

In a large disaster, organized shelters may not be available for the first three days after a disaster. Are you able to hold on that long?

Many questions for you and your family to answer. Below are some of my family's answers, my wife and I came up with.

Routes To and From Home
Using PACE, we pre-identified four routes to and from our home. We identified hazards that needed to be avoided and anticipated hazards that might occur during a specific event like a earthquake, chemical spill, or traffic accident.

This hit home twice. Once when there was a fire in the area. The fire trucks blocked one of the routes keeping us from getting home. We had to pull out the local street maps to find a different way home.

There wasn't one. Yep, we didn't have a map.

Now, we keep a local street map, state maps from our state and surrounding states, and a national atlas in our cars.

Some people would say to buy new maps every time they come out. I have found; if we get new maps whenever we find free state maps and buy new local maps when the old maps get really outdated, we are adequately prepared.

We also drive our alternate routes, every once in awhile, to see what is going on in the area of the route. With this stimulus package, there will be a lot of roadwork, so make sure you check your routes to and from home.

The second time, we had trouble, was when we had severe local storms with some flooding. The flooding wrecked one culvert, closing the road. Temporarily, flooded another road, and trees were blown down closing another road.

We decided to stay home. If we had needed to leave, we could have walked out or used the chain saw to cut our way clear, with the neighbors' help.

Staying with Family or Friends
As an extended family, we have talked about having to evacuate. We have agreed to put up with each other for a few days in an emergency. I would suggest pre-position supplies such as clothing to decrease the need to pack or go back home to get things. I figure a footlocker, 4 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 2 feet tall, would hold enough clothes and shoes for a few days, without washing, for a family of four.

I have been using open-head steel drums as storage containers for extra blankets and extra clothing, after a mouse got into my house, for out-of-state friends that might show up with nothing but the clothes on their back.

I find almost new clothes at swap meets, garage sales, and relief society stores. I stock new underwear because most people will reject used panties or briefs. I also buy extra coats, hats, gloves, and sweaters in earth tones because of my threat analysis.
Check with expected guest for allergies to wool and ask the ladies to send you slightly used bras.

Staying in an Emergency Shelter
I have done some reading and had a little experience staying in a medium-sized camp with a group of people, so here are my opinions.

First, get your back up against a wall and find several escape routes out of the area. I say this because being up against a wall gives you one less route for trouble to approach. The several escape routes will allow you and your family to leave, quickly if needed. Remember, fires happen at shelters, too.

Second, form an impromptu group if you need to. You have heard of "Safety in Numbers." Get like minded families to sleep together in the same area this allows responsible teens and adults to watch each other's stuff and younger family members.

Safety in numbers also includes moving around and visiting others. Always move in groups of two and three, four at the maximum. Remember, children never go to the bathroom without an adult or older teen.

Women and men should also always travel together. Yes, for protection but also to give the guys a "softer" look. Which looks more threatening: Four guys walking together or a two guys and two gals? Yes, you can imagine a particular skin color.

About that visiting, make an effort to talk to other people. You want to find out what they know about the situation. Confirm those rumors, too.

Next, understand the staff at the shelter are people. Treat them with kindness and respect. Talk to them, make a connection with them, and if possible give them a hand. Also understand the shelter staff may have different priorities then you and your family have.

Lastly, find a happy medium between being too far from the bathrooms and too close to the bathrooms. They begin to smell after a few days. Oh, make sure to try and get your own roll of toilet paper.

Links:

Monday, July 13, 2009

Second Half - Shelter


Welcome,
This is the second half of the blog about shelter. You will find videos/podcasts, instructions, and other information about the subject for this week.

Videos/Podcasts:

Rigging a Tarp: Bushcraft
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjMmla9DSzo

Debris Shelter:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8OuP0jDgo8

Instructions:

Other Information:

Travel Trailers
There are a group of people that suggest buying a small pop-up travel trailer as an alternative shelter. If disaster strikes, you and the family temporarily move out to the trailer. Supplies are pre-positioned in the trailer, so all you have to do is evacuate the house.

The pop-up trailer group mentions that the trailer can be parked by the house for storage, if the subdivision rules allow it. During an emergency, the family can stay in the trailer and discourage looters.

This might not work during the aftermath of a tornado, hurricane, or windstorm. The house and the trailer could both be wiped out, at the same time. Some people respond to this problem by renting a spot in a secure storage facility, but this adds additional costs to the solution.

These travel trailers can be simple or elaborate. The simple trailers have a pop-up roof, a small toilet, sink, stove and built in beds. The more elaborate travel trailers, some people call them 5th wheels, have showers, refrigerators, air conditioners, and other amenities not found in a smaller model.

Now notice, I did not call one cheaper then the other. There is a possibility to get one of these trailers for free. Check Craig's List and ask friends and relatives for contacts that might have one.

We had a family member buy an older Airstream travel trailer on E-bay and complete a total-gut and rehab. It was a project for people handy with tools.

There is another group of people that have converted school buses to travel homes. There are many sources/references on the internet, some free, some not. Once again another project for handy people or people who know handy people.

Having a travel home is more convenient then a trailer. No hooking up the trailer to the truck; everything is already in the bus, ready to go.

Junk Land
There is another group of survivalist that advocate buying a small piece of rural property, junk land they call it. The property is cheap enough and small enough to own with only one or two years of payments.

The idea it to put a travel trailer on the property, so you have a place to stay. Even in a severe economic crisis, you have a roof over your head. The best advocate for this method of dealing with the shelter issue is James Dakin at "Bison Survival Blog".

There are two blogger, that I know about, that are also living the travel trailer/low cost shelter life. They are Big Bear at "Bear Ridge Project" and M.D. Creekmore at "The Survivalist Blog."

Nuclear War Shelters
Be careful using the US government nuclear war shelter plans that you find on the internet. The designers under planned/engineered the ventilation systems.

Nuclear War Survival Skills and the steel tank shelter plans from Oregon Institute of Science and Medicine are the best, in my opinion, for the do-it-yourselfer.

Ki For You has a page showing all of the nuclear targets and a possible fallout pattern/concentration map for a large scale attack.

Tents
OK, enough nuclear war "WE ARE ALL GOING TO DIE!!!" stuff. Let me talk about tents.

There are many types of tents. The US military's 1940s era canvas pup tent is good if you have a nylon tarp to put over it to protect the tent during the rain. Remember, The US solider still uses it for a reason. It is inexpensive and lasts for decades in storage.

But wait until mosquito season. You will need a mosquito net to keep the bugs away.

You can also tie a poncho liner/blanket to the inside of the tent to create a tent liner. The middle of the poncho liner is tied to the tent poles (the six green wooden poles that get put together to make two longer poles) and the four corners are tied to the tent pegs (the nine orange or green metal stakes). Basically, you make a tent inside the canvas pup tent. This is a good idea in cold weather. You don't bump up against the cold canvas.

Another is to make four long poles, out of branches, to replace the two center poles. Two of the four poles are tied together creating an "A" frame. The top of the "A" is placed in the hole normally used of the tent poles. The other set of two long poles are centered in the other hole used for the tent poles. This opens up the inside of the pup tent for easier movement in the tent.

If you are going to stay in one place for a long time, you will need to put a can, rock, or other similar object under the bottom of the poles. This keeps the poles from sinking/digging into the ground and keeps the tent from sagging, too.

Remember, the canvas pup tent is a two man tent; only you, your spouse, and a small amount of gear will be able fit inside the tent. Your gear will have to stay outside, so you will need another nylon tarp.

You hear them called Hex Tents, GP Mediums, GP Larges, or Command Posts, these are the large military canvas tents. They are big, some running close to a $1000, shipping not included. http://www.armytents.com/ has pictures of some of the military tents available. Always check around for the cheapest price.

Cabela's, Gander Mountain, Bass Pro are a few places to find more modern tents. If you get a big tent, you will want cots.

Cots keep you off the ground. The most durable cot around is the US military nylon cot. If you are going to use it for any length of time in the winter, you will need a foam insulated sleeping pad.

Therm-a-rest, Cabela's store brand, a US military sleeping pad, a few sheets of cardboard/newspaper, or even some salvaged foam padding will provide insulation when the sleeping bags insulation becomes compressed giving you a cold back.

The cot trees are pretty cool. You can make your own out of tree branches or dole rods and 2X4s. The cot pockets work well, too. Get your husband to sew up a few using some type of heavy cloth like denim. If you make them, you can customize to your likes. I use zip ties and double-sided velcro to hold them to the cot.

Native Shelters
Tipis, yurts, goahti, and kohte are a few of the names for these native shelters. These shelters are/were used by native people from many parts of the world. I have included some links for you to start your research.

Alternative Shelter
Straw bale homes and earthships are two of the alternative shelters I know about. You are going to have to do an internet search on straw bale houses. Go ahead and include earthships in you search, too.

Underground Homes
If you are planning to build an underground home, Davis Caves is the place to start. Don't forget to watch the You Tube on Ben and Toni's Earth Sheltered Home.

Links:

Bison Survival Blog
http://www.bisonsurvivalblog.blogspot.com/

Bear Ridge Project
http://www.bearridgeproject.com/

The Survivalist Blog
http://thesurvivalistblog.blogspot.com

Ki for You
http://www.ki4u.com/webpal/d-_resources/list.htm

Yurtinfo.org - Yurt FAQ
http://www.yurtinfo.org/yurtinfo.php

Wikipedia - Tipi
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tipi

Davis Caves
http://www.daviscaves.com/index.shtml

Ben and Toni's Earth Sheltered Home
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycQc5EWNzIU

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Week Two - Shelter


Quickstart:

Buy a small family-sized tent, a wool blanket for everyone in the family, and store these item in a place where they can be gotten to if the house collapses or is destroyed.

Blog Post:

Welcome,
Shelter protects us from the elements, but in emergency preparedness, shelter must provide protection from so much more.

Now take out your threat analysis list. Read through it. Anybody have hurricanes or tornadoes on their list? How about wind storms? Terrorism? Wildfire? Now, how do you protect yourself from these hazards? You do research.

FEMA, the United States of America's Federal Emergency Management Agency has many resources for learning about the various natural and technical disasters that will confront you. They even have suggestions on how to mitigate (reduce the effects) hazards such as earthquakes, hurricanes, tornadoes, floods, and terrorism. Check them out; they even have a kids page.

You are going to learn a lot from the FEMA site, but there is more to shelter then what FEMA has on its website.

Suppose, you have to leave your home, or you are stranded in the wilds. If you are stranded, you might have to improvise a shelter. Do you have a tarp? How about some string? Read M4040's tarp shelter page for some how-to on tarp shelters.

If you don't have these items, you can build a dugout shelter or a debris shelter. Out in winter's cold, you might need to build a snow shelter. Outdoor Action has a "Guide to Snow Shelters." Another article about snow trenches can be found in the links section.

If you need something more permanent, you could build a log cabin. Mother Earth News has an article about a $100 cabin. Watch out for inflation, the article was written in 1981.

I know, I know. We will never need these shelters because you don't go into the woods, but just in case, read the links. But what happens if you home is damaged.

You need to keep a few blue tarps on hand to cover any holes in the roof. A few sheets of plywood, and double-headed nails, to protect windows. A roll of clear plastic to cover broken windows also helps. Don't forget the hammer, staples, and the staple gun. The craftsman stapler called the "Easy Fire" seems to be better than the older model of staplers.

Having clear plastic also allows you to form a safe room from a chemical spill or attack. During Gulf War One, the Israelis showed us how to make a safe room for chemical attacks by using the highest room in our homes. The one with no exterior opening such as windows or doors. Don't forget skylights. For most people, this is a hallway bathroom.

If you plan to have a safe room from chemical attack, you can pre-cut the plastic sheeting to cover all of the openings in the room. Doors, windows, and heating vents. You don't have to cover the faucets in the bathroom. Once you cut the plastic, all you need is duct tape to tape the plastic around the opening, and seal.

If you don't pre-cut the plastic sheeting, you will need scissors. A small supply of towels or rags to help seal under the door will also help to stop or slow down the chemicals from entering your chemical attack safe room.

If you shelter in a bathroom, you could use the water and the toilet during your brief stay. A radio for information and card games, coloring books, or other low-activity games to help keep the children occupied are also important.

If possible, pre-position all of these supplies in the room you will use as a safe room.

Remember those opinions, the CDC has a recommendation for using a master bedroom as your shelter in place for a chemical emergency. If you have some kids and a few pets, it sounds like a good idea. Plus, there is more air to breath.

RAND has a a report on some scenarios that might happen during a biological, chemical and radiological attack. Download the PDF. Save it. Read it. Think about the report then act.

With more countries building nuclear weapons and having the means to launch these weapons, the possibility of a nuclear attack increases. I'm talking about the "big one." The 10 to 100 nuclear weapons coming in from Russia, China, Britain, France, India, Israel, or someone else.

To hear some people talk, you would think you need to buy a $2,000,000 former ICBM site to survive a nuclear war. Nope, you don't even need to buy the $260,000 site.

You do need to get a copy of Nuclear War Survival Skills. The book is available for free as a PDF; additionally, you can view the book online.

Be warned, there is this effect from an exploding atomic bomb called electromagnetic pulse (EMP); it can fry computers and other electronics, so you might need to buy a hardcopy of the book from Amazon.com or the folks in the links.

If you have more money, and you don't want to move; you can buy a shelter. There are two types of nuclear war shelters, a blast shelter and a fallout shelter.

A blast shelter can be a fallout shelter, but a fallout shelter can't be a blast shelter. This has to do with the effects of a nuclear weapon. The fallout will travel farther than the blast. So, if you are in the blast radius, a fallout shelter will not protect you from over-pressurization effects.

If you understood that statement, cool. If you didn't, make sure you read Nuclear War Survival Skills.

There are three shelter builders that I know of, Radius Engineering, Safecastle, and Utah Shelter Systems. Radius produces fiberglass blast shelters. Safecastle builds square/rectangle steel blast shelters. Utah Shelter Systems builds round steel blast shelters. All three will be expensive.

An alternative is to build your own shelter. There are many plans on the internet. The website from Rad Shelters For You has a round up of the various nuclear war shelters.

A mini blast/fallout shelter can be manufactured locally if you are on a tight budget, and you want to prepare for a nuclear war. As you can see the topic of shelters is a long and varied one. You need to think about what you are going to do and practice those techniques you have decided to use.

So study the links, and I'll ...

See you next week!

Links:

FEMA Hazards Index:
http://www.fema.gov/hazard/index.shtm

FEMA for Kids:
http://www.fema.gov/kids

Equipped To Survive - Tarp Shelters - An Introduction
http://www.equipped.org/tarp-shelters.htm

M4040's - Tarp Shelter
http://www.m404.com/survival/skills/shelter/tarpshelter.htm

M4040's - Survival Shelter Building Skills http://www.m4040.com/Survival/Skills/Shelter/Shelter.htm

Debris Hut
http://wildwoodsurvival.com/survival/shelter/debrishut/dn2006/index.html

How to Build a Debris Hut: http://www.ehow.com/how_12578_build-debris-hut.html

Outdoor Action "Guide to Snow Shelters" http://www.princeton.edu/~oa/winter/wintshel.shtml

Snow Trench Shelter
http://www.survivaltopics.com/survival/snow-trench-shelter/

Build Your Own Log Cabin
http://www.outlands.tripod.com/farm/logcabin.htm

$100 Cabin:
http://www.motherearthnews.com/green-homes/1981-05-01/a-100-log-cabin.aspx

CDC Chemical Emergencies
http://www.bt.cdc.gov/planning/shelteringfacts.pdf

RAND - Report MR1731
http://www.rand.org/pubs/monograph_reports/MR1731/

Former Missile bases for sale
http://www.missilebases.com/

Nuclear War Survival Skills - Free PDF: http://www.nukepills.com/docs/nuclear_war_survival_skills.pdf

Nuclear War Survival Skills - To Read Online http://www.oism.org/nwss

Nuclear War Survival Skills - To Buy: http://www.oism.org/nwss/s73p908.htm

Radius Engineering International:
http://www.bomb-shelter.net/

Safe Castle
http://www.safecastle.com/

Utah Shelter Systems
http://www.disastershelters.net/

Rad Shelters For You" http://www.radshelters4u.com/index3.htm

Mini Blast/Fallout Shelter http://www.radshelters4u.com/mini-blast-shelter.htm

The Name Says It All!
http://www.blastshelter.com/

Friday, July 10, 2009

Friday - Thinking


It's Friday!

The end of the work week and another original post about what's going on in the world/my life.

Logistics, Logistics, and Logistics
In the United States Military, stuff is important. Without stuff, nothing happens. No food, no eating; no bullets, no shooting; and no medical supplies, no saved lives; it's that simple.

What does this have to do with you?

Stuff keeps us alive. From canned food to water filters to antibiotics to ... You get the idea. Even the Amish must get stuff from outside their communities.

So, we (my girl-friend and I) have started to list the things we use and that can be stockpiled by us.

Now notice, I said we are making a list.

If you can include your partners because they will be there, with you, when the disaster happens bcause your husband will need extra heart medicine, your boyfriend will need a spare set of glasses, your wife will need more ammo for her pistol and so on. Plus, only they know what they might need.

Well, it looks like to us, we are shaping up for an economic crisis. So we are including things, on our list, we need every day. Such as laundry/dish washing detergent, tinfoil, pet food, and ...

It's turning into a pretty big list.

And it seems other have already developed a list. I must warn you, the list that I linked to has been circulating around the internet for about a decade. I have looked at it and asked "Only 100 items?" "What about the Womenfolk?" "Why tunafish? and Why not other meats?" and many other questions.

Read the list then start your own list.

Links:

Merriam-Webster Dictionary - Logistics
http://merriam-webster.com/dictionary/logistics

Wikipedia - Logistics
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Logistics

Power Hour - 100 Items to Disappear First
http://www.thepowerhour.com/news/items_disappearfirst.htm

Research
The above post brings up something I read over at Be A Survivor. Read the post then come back.

Be A Survivor - How To Learn Something That Interests You
http://beasurvivor.blogspot.com/2009/06/how-to-learn-about-something-that.html

I would include some other ways of learning something that may interest you such as take a class at the local community college, ask a friend to teach you that skill, hire someone to do the task then watch them.

I did this when we bought some storm doors for our condo. I hired someone to come out and install the first door. I watched real close and asked a lot of question (I made sure I tipped the guy, too) then I read the instructions and installed the other two doors, myself. I also did that for our two garage door openers at our home.

Chicken Coop
The chicken coop is done, and we have our first two eggs. So far, those two eggs have cost us $250 each.

More about the chickens, later!

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Third Half - Thinking


Welcome,
This is the third half of the blog post on thinking.

PACE
I had never heard of it before, until I read a book by Gerry Schumacher (To Be a US Army Green Beret).

PACE is an acronym to help organize your thinking on your preparations.

Primary - What is the first way that you are going to solve a problem.

Alternate - What is the second way that you are going to solve the same problem

Contingency - The third way

Emergency - The very last way before you have to improvise a solution to your problem.

Let us look at an example.

Your problem, opening cans of food.

Primary - an electric can opener
Alternate - a manual can opener
Contingency - another manual can opener
Emergency - a P-51 can opener

Yes, I know an electric can open won't work in a power outage. That is why you have three other methods of opening canned food. It could be worse; you could have lost electricity and broken the manual can opener. Don't worry though, you still have the other manual can opener and the P-51. All of these methods have to fail before you start stressing about how to improvise a method to safely open your canned food.

The OODA Loop
I have heard of this decision-making process before. It helps you to focus on your problems/situations

Observe - make Observations about a problem

Orient - Orient yourself to the problem. What do you see as the problem/What information do you have about the problem

Decide - Decide what you are going to do about the problem

Act - Act on you decision

Then you go through the loop again until the problem is solved. There is an article at Wikipedia that explains the OODA Loop http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OODA_Loop

I can use the OODA Loop to explain how this blog has evolved.

My problem/situation; I know I can't go it alone. I don't have time or money to be a doctor/nurse, welder/pipe fitter, farmer/rancher, and pull security 24/7/365.

Observe - no money, lack skills, people to join with, friends/family are starting to see the various situations happening and want to prepare. I am a doomer and a gloomer, this turns people off. Folks don't want to go over the basics, I think are necessary, in their survival-type blogs.

Orient - People don't have time because of 9 to 5 jobs to learn the basics of surviving a long-term emergency

Decide - I'll write a one entry per week for 16 weeks preparedness blog so people can take the time they need to learn about preparedness

Act - write the blog and get family/friends to read it.

Now I look at the results. I am unsatisfied, so ...

Observe - I have a lot of knowledge. The one entry per week for 16 weeks blog isn't working, for me. Low readership. Not enough people "taking the course"

Orient - I need to provide more information. Not advertising with others

Decide - I will ask some of the survival-type blogs for a plug, and I'll write more

Act - E-mail Ryan at Total Survivalist Libertarian Rantfest and James Dakin at Bison Survival Blog. Write an additional post for the week.

Again, I look at the results. I'm not satisfied, so I...

And the process continues until an acceptable outcome occurs. The OODA Loop can also be used in a tactical situation. I think this is the original idea behind the OODA Loop's development. It may help you to defeat your opponent, so read about the OODA Loop at the link.